By Rita Cook
I knew that traveling India’s countryside from Mumbai
to Goa would be a journey of the mind as much as the body. The
sights and sounds that this ancient country offers is breathtaking,
complete with century old forts and an enigmatic culture steeped in
time.
Add to that the chance to experience a train built for royalty
winding through the countryside and stopping at small towns while
allowing travelers to revel in the traditional way of life found
only in this part of the world. The romance of it all couldn't be
sweeter.
If you combine all these components together you have a journey
that will never be forgotten. Alas you have a journey aboard the
Deccan Odyssey.
The
Deccan Odyssey is India’s newest addition to the tourist market and
it is every bit as luxurious as the Blue Train of South Africa, the
Orient Express of Europe and the Eastern and Oriental of South East
Asia.
Three years in the making, the Deccan Odyssey is a dark blue
affair highlighted with gold stripes. The coaches are named after
well-known forts, monuments and sites throughout India and they are
names you will become familiar with on your eight-day journey.
The Deccan Odyssey travels up to 60 miles per hour as it coils
its way through Maharashtra beginning in the famously well-known
city of Mumbai (formerly Bombay until 1976) and ending up in the
very Portugal-influenced Goa. Following Goa the Deccan Odyssey turns
around to head back to Mumbai via an entirely new route away from
the coastline. It’s the small towns and beaches as much as the
impressive large cities that will allow you to see an India that
most travelers are not afforded the chance to experience.
So it was day one of my journey that I found myself in Mumbai.
Mumbai is known for many things, but the most important at the
moment seems to be Bollywood. While it’s not Hollywood, California,
you can still find India’s version of its well-known celebrities
plastered on row after row of billboards. Mumbai has a modern feel;
it’s relatively new in many parts with a modern architecture
accentuated by old-world gothic style buildings.
It wasn’t until the evening that we boarded the Deccan Odyssey,
treated to a local Indian dish and waiting for the journey to
properly get started. For the most part, the train traveled in the
evening and stopped during the morning and afternoon for passengers
to discover the ancient land.
As I awoke on day two, I was treated to hot coffee and toast
brought to me by my valet. Always attentive, each car’s personal
valet is continuously on call and I remained surprised at how our
valet always seemed to appear at just the right time whether it was
my stopped up drain, my lack of hot water or even the afternoon when
I locked myself inside my cabin. Like magic, he was there to fix the
problem and he did it with a smile, although I couldn’t help
wondering what he was thinking behind his friendly façade.
Day two was a welcome ceremony in Ukshi station, mountains and
backwaters calling us onward as we were taken to Rai Jetty for a
boat ride alighting on the other side at the famed 17th
century Jaigad Fort. We also had the chance to experience the Konkan
village, which is a must on your trip since there is no access via
road or rail to this area of India.
We reveled in the opportunity to enjoy a
Konkan lunch followed by rest and relaxation on the beach in
Ganapatipule with the Arabian Sea as an enticing backdrop.
In the evening we were hurried back again to the comfort of our
temporary home where dinner awaited, and I gathered with my new
friends from other around the world to talk about the day’s
adventure.
| On day three the train
stop is at the Sindhudurg Nagari station. Again, it’s a
chance to see an India unvisited by most tourists. In fact,
each morning when we arrived at a new destination there were
hordes of friendly faces to greet us. People from miles away
had traveled all night to arrive in time to witness the
royal train as it stopped to pay a visit to an almost
forgotten station nestled among the Indian countryside.
The temples here are dedicated to the Hindu gods and they
stand as shrines years after they have been built, a gentle
reminder of the native culture. It is here at the Fort of
Sindhudurg that 6000 workers toiled day and night for three
years to complete this massive structure. The fort and
surroundings is on 48 acres and is said to have been
designed by Shivaji himself, a beautiful monument sitting
right on the water—but surrounded by the rocky coastline
that was penetrable by none but the most stalwart of
boatmen.
Another famously executed beach lunch and an afternoon
swim in the Arabian Sea calls after I have had a chance to
look around the area of Tarkarli. The Konkani-style cottages
are open and waiting for those who enjoy afternoon naps.
From that point we take a boat ride through the Tarkarli
Creek to Kalse Jetty.
It’s about now that the passenger’s on the train are
buzzing about tomorrow. Tomorrow is Goa. Goa seems to be
larger than life to those of us who have not been there. The
Brits are especially excited, but one couple comments it’s a
bit overrun with tourists. Nevertheless, we wait in
anticipation for the morning’s embarkation.
As we arrive in Goa most of the passenger’s are taken
with the overpowering sights, sounds and smells. Indeed, it
feels like a little piece of Portugal in this remote part of
the world. Bougainvilleas hide whitewashed houses and tiny
alleys with the occasional stray cat beckon. The natives
smile and wave, they are well versed in the tourist trade
and know how to make a visitor feel welcome.
For
the most part I explore Goa alone losing the group on
purpose in order to get a feel of what it is that everyone
has been talking about. The churches we are taken to on the
first stop are impressive, but we all agree that you can do
churches in Europe, besides these catholic churches feel
somewhat odd in this country steeped in Eastern religion.
It’s a fact that you can’t miss old Goa and the Mangeshi
Temple. I immediately decide that Goa is a good place to
return in spite of my British friends’ warnings. Who
wouldn’t want to spend some time on the virgin beaches that
are still waiting to be explored and spend the night in one
of the small inns that are perfect for an inexpensive
week-long stay. Not to mention that no matter where you
visit in Goa you can always find shrines and shops just
waiting.
As we push off that evening from the station we head to
Pune, the well-known capital of Marathas. It’s here in Pune
that we visit the Raja Kelkar Museum, a quaint little place
with collections from the 17th, 18th
and 19th century. While the owner realizes he has
a gem of a collection, he is quite humble and welcomes
visitors with a smile.
Many tourists find their way to Pune only to visit the
world-famous Osho Ashram. While this is one place I would
have been happy missing, it’s interesting to witness a cult
in action. People from around the world come to live at the
Ashram for day, weeks or months and, for lack of a better
word, to find spiritual meaning. It’s questionable if they
find it, but once inside you do have the chance to dance all
morning, eat all afternoon and take a large selection of
metaphysical classes sometime in between. What I enjoyed the
most was the shopping bazaar just up the street where I
found an overabundance of Indian fabrics, purses and shawls
to take home to America.
Day six found us in Aurangabad. It’s here that monuments,
caves and temples give way to the fortress of Daulatabad.
The world famous Ellora Caves beckon the visitor, it’s a
well-known world heritage site representing a variety of
religions. In fact, these caves’ 34 carved rock-cut temples
signify Buddhist, Jain and Hindu faiths and are said to be
the work of priests and pilgrims from each religion. The 12
Buddhist caves are from 600 to 700 AD, the 17 Hindu caves
from 800 to 1000 AD and the five Jain caves from 1000 to
1300 AD. Each cave is rich with the carvings of elephants,
lotus and lions while also giving the air of a peace and
tranquility not found in today’s modern world.
| The following
day is a visit to another set of popular caves
called the Ajanti Caves. These caves were discovered
by accident during a hunting expedition by a party
of British soldiers. Buddha plays a large part in
this landmark, and we saw murals and sculptures of
The Birth of Buddha and The Thousand Buddhas. There
are also paintings on the ceilings depicting
elephants, bulls, the black princess and a row of
dancers with musicians. On day eight we arrive
back in Mumbai leaving the train early in the
morning. Mumbai seems different now that we have
explored the countryside and met the people. The
smiles are the same, but as you journey through
India each day gives you a better understanding of
what India really is from the inside out.
While in India you must also make time to shop.
Sure, the small villages are a wonderful place to
find local antiquities, but it’s in Mumbai where you
will find some amazing bargains. I had a shopping
list for shawls, shoes, incense and statues and I
found everything I needed at an obscure street
market within 30 minutes. The vendors welcome
bargaining so don’t be shy. For those looking for
the well-known bazaars then it’s Manish Market, Chor
Bazaar or Kabutarkhana and Fashion Street.
The most I will remember is that at every stop
along the way locals greeted us with smiles and
cultural ceremonies. They offered us a glimpse into
their world, their religion and their mindset. It’s
a feeling that can only be experienced in the
moment, but that will never be forgotten.
About the Deccan Odyssey
Deccan Odyssey offers 44 suites in 11 cars, and a
total of 21 coaches in all. The décor is highly
appointed offering a rich interior reflecting the
face of Indian royalty. You can expect
air-conditioned rooms, foreign exchange facilities,
a small health spa that offers a beauty salon, steam
room and massage facilities.
The dining room serves a different selection
every night, and the chef is open to special orders.
I know because he made me a fabulous pizza one
evening upon request, and I discovered he had been
trained in Italy.
A trip to India is an experience that will awaken
all your senses. I even made the front page of the
local newspaper there during a colorful ceremony
welcoming us one morning. However, my most fond
memory is the afternoon I stood with friends in a
crowed street and announced, "See the elephant
walking down the street?" Indeed, this elegant
creature made his way toward us as my friend laughed
and said, "How many times do you get to say that in
a sentence." It’s true, but in India you see it
quite often. In fact, elephants are sacred in the
country since Ganesha is one of the most revered
gods. No matter what experience you will remember,
you will soon come to understand that as you open
your mind and senses you can be sure that this
magical train ride through time will be with you
long after you return home. |
|
Rita Cook lives
in Los Angeles and is the editor of Premier Bride magazine. She
also has a romance novel coming out this winter called "Angel’s
Destiny".