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Shopping the Souks of Morocco
by Paris Permenter & John Bigley
The donkey, its baskets laden with wood shavings,
winds down the narrow alley. Shoppers, themselves carrying bundles of
the
 day's
vegetables or a side of freshly slaughtered lamb, yield right of way.
This medieval market plays out daily in the streets of Morocco. Lying at
the crossroads of Africa and Europe, for centuries Morocco has served as
a place to buy and sell goods ranging from magic potions to magic
carpets, from brass goods to burnooses. The exotic romance of the souks
is contagious and even non-shoppers find themselves entranced by the
myriad of goods from throughout Africa.
Souks are found in many of Morocco's cities but the most expansive
shopping areas lie in the cities of Marrakech and Fes. Here within the
ancient walls of the medina, daily life follows a centuries-old pattern.
Goods are haggled for in tiny shops and stalls, often over glass after
glass of what might be considered the national drink--hot mint tea as
sweet as liquefied chewing gum. Craftsmen pound out designs on brass, as
the echoes reverberate along narrow passageways where veiled women move
through the day's activities.
The heart of Marrakech's shopping experience is found at Jemaa el Fna.
In this sprawling square performers gather in the late afternoon and
into the evening. Watch a cobra dance to the sway of a wooden flute,
photograph the colorful watersellers with their chests covered in
dangling brass cups or have a look at the "dentist," whose quick
extraction skills are advertised by a table full of teeth. Behind the
square lies the souk, with miles of twisting walkways that offer an
array of goods.
Marrakech's souk is best known for its circus-like square, a dramatic
stage that's fascinating for the shopper and non-shopper alike. In the
city of Fes, however, the souk is a practical market, used primarily by
local residents as they carry out the business of daily life. Since
medieval times, the souk has been reserved for pedestrians -- and
donkeys -- only. Keep an ear out for cries of "barek" to warn of
incoming donkey deliveries.
Whether you shop the souks of Marrakech, Fes, or one of Morocco's other
cities, you'll find the narrow, winding streets and alleys of the souk
are far more orderly than they first appear. Specialty souks within the
souk are devoted to fabrics, spices, meats, brass and ironwork,
clothing, and other wares. The meat souk, with its open-air displays of
goat heads, sheep feet and live chickens, is best experienced in the
morning hours, before the heat of day turns the sometimes stagnant air
foul.
You'll want to budget at least one entire day for shopping the souk,
even longer if you're a dedicated bargain hunter. Here's a run down of
some of the top souk offerings:
Moroccan Carpets
An unforgettable part of any souk experience is a
visit to the rug merchant. Expect to drink three or four glasses of
sweet mint tea and spend at least half a day in during negotiations for
one of Morocco's top products.
To step into the store of a rug merchant is to walk into a den of
designs, no two of them alike. "There is no plan; each is in the mind of
the ladies who make them," explained Mr. Youssaf, spokesperson for La
Porte d'Or in Marrakech. Fifteen types of Moroccan rugs and carpets are
found in shops throughout the area from the High Atlas rugs, made with
100% wool and dyed with vegetable colors to the woven and embroidered
Kilim rugs. Prices vary with the degree of work, from US$6,000-$12,000
for a High Atlas carpet to US$5500 for a reversible carpet (with a
summer and winter side) to as little as US$150 for a kilim rug. Prices
are generally one-half to one-third of those found in the US.
Arrangements can be made with merchants for shipping and delivery to be
included in the negotiated price.
Leather Goods
Although fine leatherwork is sold in souks
throughout Morocco, the best selection is found in Fes. This city is
home to an expansive tannery, one of Africa's most photographed sites.
Although we were warned of its odoriferous
qualities (leather is treated in vats that contain everything from
pigeon droppings to lime), our guide provided us with a sprig of mint to
smell during our view of the multi-colored vats that produce some of the
area's finest leather goods.
Purses (US$10 and up), sequin-dotted leather camel toys (US$3-5), and
babouches or soft slippers (US$3-$25) were some of the most popular
items in the tannery store. Outside, street vendors sell colorful
billfolds embossed with Moroccan designs for as little as US$2.50.
Traditional Dress
Another shopping experience in the souk is the
dress shop. Caftans, traditional women's dress, and the djellaba, a long
man's garment with a deep, pointed hood, are available in a variety of
styles and materials ranging from cotton to polyester to silk. Prices
start at about US$25 and go as high as $600 for a special occasion
garment.
Look for other traditional wear as well. The
burnoose, an elegant hooded cape, can sell for US$450. Djellabas come in
three styles: Arab (large, flowing garments), Berber (with straighter
lines) and Pasha (a two-piece garment worn for special events).
Need an inexpensive gift? Veils that double as scarves average US$12-20.
Pharmacies
Even if you're feeling perfectly healthy, don't
miss the chance to visit a Moroccan pharmacy. Like a witch doctor's den,
these mysterious shops tucked in the souk's alleys, offer local
residents cures for everything from toothaches to arthritis to broken
hearts. Powders and potions, concocted of local herbs, not to mention
dried lizards seen hanging on the walls, provide a cure for whatever
ails you.
 Travelers
will be especially interested in the spices and perfumes. Saffron can be
purchased for about US$2 per gram (minimum of five grams). Moroccan
curry, a different blend than Indian curry, and a heady mix of Moroccan
spices called "Head of the Store" are popular choices.
In the natural pharmacies, you'll also find
stencils for henna designs (US$1), kohl eyeliner (US$3), musk (US$3 per
gram) and numerous oils.
Tips for Souk Shoppers
*Get a supply of Moroccan coins for tipping. Tips
are expected for photos; the going rate is 1 to 5 Dirhams (10 to 50
cents US).
*Exchange only as much money as you expect to spend. Always exchange
money in banks or at the larger hotels, never on the street. The
official currency is the dirham (dh). At press time, the exchange rate
was about US$1 = 10 Dh.
*Credit cards are accepted for larger purchases but carry cash for most
souk buys.
*Negotiation is the name of the game. When presented with a price,
counter with a price of about 1/3 the amount. Keep the process friendly
yet firm. If you counter with a final offer and are allowed to walk away
from the shop, you've obviously underestimated the value.
*A guide is an invaluable asset in the winding, twisting alleys of both
Fes and Marrakech. Licensed guides can be recommended by the hotels.
*Don't plan to shop much on Fridays, the Muslim holy day. Most stalls
close at noon or 12:30.
*Watch your belongings. Pickpockets roam the souks.
*Be prepared to be jostled. The souks are crowded, especially in Fes.
IF YOU GO
Getting There: Air service from the US and Canada
to Morocco is quick and easy, just 6-1/2 hours from New York's JFK
International Airport to Casablanca. For more information, call
800-344-6726. Fare information and schedules can be found at the Royal
Air Maroc web site,
http://www.kingdomofmorocco.com. Short flights connect Casablanca
with Marrakech, Fes, and other cities.
A valid passport is required of all visitors.
When to Go: Fall and spring are excellent times to
visit. Winters can be cold and shoppers will find limited activity
during the holy month of Ramadan.
Health Precautions: No immunizations are required
for a visit to Morocco. Travelers are advised to drink only bottled
water and avoid ice as well as food that has been rinsed in water such
as salads and most fruits.
Language: English is spoken by many merchants but
the official language of Morocco is Arabic. Most Moroccans also speak
French; Spanish is spoken in the northern cities as well.
Paris Permenter & John Bigley are founders of
www.LoveTripper.com - a
romantic travel site featuring getaways of special interest to lovers in
search of a honeymoon, a destination wedding, or a weekend away.
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