By Sheree Bykofsky
"Life is a banquet." So says Loretta Swit (of "M.A.S.H." fame) as
the star of "Mame," which played at the world-class BTI Performing
Center for the Arts in Raleigh, North Carolina. Coincidentally – and
surprisingly – life is like a banquet in Raleigh
itself. With restaurants, museums, and shopping galore, it's a big
city with small-town feel – and an extra dose of Southern
hospitality.
Located halfway between New York and Florida, Raleigh's just a
short plane ride away for Eastern seaboarders in particular, making
it a great place for both a long weekend and an extended vacation.
Take advantage of Raleigh's many fine museums; a number of them are
free of charge, and they're worthy of any large city. Depending on
your interests, you'll want to visit the Raleigh City Museum, the
North Carolina Museum of History, and the North Carolina Museum of
Natural Sciences; they're just a short walk from each other. Then
drive to the North Carolina Museum of Art, which is just a short
jaunt away.
For a first-hand taste of Raleigh's rich history, take a l
eisurely
trolley ride throughout the downtown area past Raleigh's most famous
historic sights. (Trolleys have been a part of the city's life since
the late nineteenth century.) You'll glide by Mordecai Historic
Park, the Capital Area Visitors Center, State Capitol at
Bicentennial Plaza, Glenwood South at West & Jones Streets, Joel
Lane House, and City Market.
If you haven't had a hot Krispy Kreme doughnut, you're missing
out! Visit Raleigh's branch, where you can buy one hot off the racks
(as long as the neon "Hot Doughnuts" sign is lit!) Watch through the
window as bakers feed huge bags of flour, sugar and other
ingredients into mixers and ovens, and marvel at the waterfall of
glaze that descends upon row after row of fresh hot donuts as they
roll by on conveyor belts. Guaranteed to make you hungry!
But don't forget to save room for breakfast or lunch at Big Ed's.
Big Ed himself, clad in a red-and-white checkered shirt and denim
overalls, will greet you himself. "Got enough mouth for two sets of
teeth," says his wife. If you don't got enough gumption to chow down
on fish roe and eggs or brains and eggs (!!) you can't go wrong with
the fluffy, hubcap-sized pancakes (the recipe's an altered version
of his mother's pound cake recipe), and the sausage that's made the
same way Big Ed's granddaddy did. And don't forget to try the grits:
before you even taste ‘em, says Big Ed, you should doctor ‘em up
with butter, salt and pepper, which makes them "Georgia ice cream."
Look up: there're tin bathtubs and milking stools hanging from the
ceiling!
Don't get the wrong idea, though: there's plenty of first-class
fine dining in Raleigh. The 42nd Street Oyster Bar rivals the famed
Grand Central Terminal institution, with amazing seafood (and
excellent Cosmopolitans!) at prices that are certainly more
reasonable than Manhattan's!
And the Angus Barn (9401 Glenwood Avenue, Raleigh 27617, http://www.angusbarn.com),
just a short drive from the center of town, is an experience that's
not to be missed. It's no joke: I'd make the trip to Raleigh just to
eat here! Family-owned since it was opened in 1960, this rustic,
multilevel restaurant makes its home in a renovated barn. Before you
sit down to dinner, sip a drink at the Wild Turkey Lounge, an
upscale, old-fashioned saloon that boasts the largest private
collection of Wild Turkey bourbon decanters in the world. It also
features a gun collection and other memorabilia used by real
cowboys. Then make your way into the cavernous main dining room,
where elk-antler chandeliers hang high above the tables and where
you'll enjoy the most amazing steaks and other hearty, yet gourmet,
country-style cuisine. Additionally, the restaurant's wine cellar
has a room that can be rented for private parties; it's perfect for
engagement parties or wedding rehearsal dinners. You'll revel in its
gorgeous crystal, and its stunning decor might include details like
lush orchids hanging from the ceiling. And don't forget to take a
tour of the vast wine cellar, which houses nearly 25,000 bottles of
wine; it's available to all restaurant guests.
To work off all this good eating, you'll want to stretch your
legs in one of Raleigh's many parks. Nicknamed "The City of Oaks,"
its founding fathers were dedicated to maintaining its wooded
tracts, gardens and grassy parks – and still are. Visit the Ellen
Mordecai Garden, which was recreated from descriptions of the
Mordecai kitchen garden in the early nineteenth century. It contains
many vegetables, herbs and flowers that were grown in the mid-19th
century and admission is free. (1 Mimosa St., Raleigh 27604, (919)
834-4844, hours: daily, sunrise-sunset.)
You'll feet so at home in Raleigh you'll want to come back again
and again! And the good news is, there's plenty more to do. Find out
more about Raleigh's attractions at http://www.raleighcvb.org.
Sheree Bykofsky is the
author of The
Best Places to Kiss in and Around NYC and the 52 Most Romantic Dates
in and Around NYC