By Sheree Bykofsky
Can two very different worlds coexist within the same city? If
that city is Washington, D.C., the answer is yes – especially when
it comes to DC's amazing culinary offerings. Elegant, centuries-old
hotels and restaurants grace the streets alongside up-and-coming,
uber-hip eateries – and so many of them are places you shouldn't
miss on your next trip to DC. Here, a few of my favorites.
The Old
Whether you're staying there or not, a drink or dinner in the
Venetian Room at the Lombardy is a must (dinner is served from
5:30-9:30 daily, and the bar is open from 5:30-midnight). Brushed
velvet tapestry pillows and silk wall hangings decorate booths and
walls, while tasseled valances festoon heavy drapes. Sink back into
plush green and red patterned velvet sofas and sip a cocktail;
you'll feel like you're in a scene from "Casablanca." Wall sconces
and tiny lamps filter just enough light into the cozy, low-ceilinged
room, and the hearth against the far wall adds to the intimate
ambience. If you're staying at the Lombardy, know that you won't
find any newfangled accoutrements here; no high-speed internet,
jacuzzis, or spas. But you will find a refined, aristocratic sense
of elegance that's missing from many newer hotels. A former
apartment house in its past life, today it's an upscale hotel
decorated with Asian flourishes, but its manual elevator and brass
mailboxes help it retain the flavor of an era gone by. Rooms are
simple and spacious, and most of them have kitchenettes, so staying
here feels very much like staying in your own 1940s apartment.
Insiders know to request their breakfast in the Venetian Room -- but
be careful, you might want to spend the entire day there.
Everything about the Henley Park Hotel is old -- including the
plumbing -- except its incredible restaurant, Coeur de Lion ("heart
of the lion" in French). "Old-world elegance" certainly isn't
synonymous with "dingy" at this romantic favorite, truly the heart
of old Washington, D.C. Comprised of two rooms, one with just eight
or nine tables each, it's a tiny, exquisite gem, so much more than
you'd ever expect from a hotel restaurant. You'll be greeted by the
uber-dramatic maitre-diva Ralph, and after you get to your table
(hopefully in the small round atrium), gaze up at the skylight
above. When it's time to order, go right for the lamb, guaranteed to
make you swoon. It's so tender, succulent and soft, Ralph encourages
you to eat it with your hands. Let's put it this way; it's so
seductive, I watched as a man proposed to his soon-to-be fiancee in
the corner banquette. And you thought it only happened in the
movies!
Whatever you do, don't miss 1789 Restaurant in Georgetown, which
epitomizes fine dining. Named for an especially historic year in
D.C., it must look very much like it did over two centuries ago.
(Except that the food is so unbelievable, it could only have gotten
better!) Dining here turns an ordinary day into a special occasion:
your food is served on Limoges china and crystal; women dress to
impress and men wear jackets (or the maitre'd will give you one).
All the rooms are impeccably decorated and very romantic, but the
Manassas Room is my favorite; it's a cozy room with red banquettes
and a huge antique pig scalder (resembling a large copper kettle)
hanging from the ceiling like a chandelier. The walls are covered
with siding from a 1860s Maryland barn, and dotted with prints of
the Civil War. God is truly in the details here; brass pigeon lamps
with handmade silk lampshades adorn the tables, while the cover of
the menu features distinctly American art and changes frequently. I
had an incredible salad of ruby- red grapefruit with macadamia nuts
and gorgonzola cheese. The mussels appetizer was outstanding, too;
Prince Edward Island mussels steaming in a Thai-style spicy coconut
broth. All the entrees are great, but I recommend the Muscovy duck,
similar to duck l'orange; it's served with a Toigo honey ginger
glaze, Anna potatoes, wild mushrooms, and roasted pears. The
superbly professional staff will do everything in their power to
make your meal -- and your entire experience here -- a work of art.
The New
If you're looking to enjoy top-notch cuisine in an atmosphere that
encourages relaxing and loosening your tie, eat at 15ria Restaurant
at the Washington Terrace Hotel. Here you'll find upscale yet
unpretentious comfort food with a focus on fresh, local ingredients
at surprisingly reasonable prices. Copper, persimmon and eggplant
dominate the decor, and make for a warm, friendly ambience -- as
does the granite hearth, where there's always a fire blazing. But
you'll want to start out at the bar with a specialty cocktail, like
a Mini Manhattan or Tiny Tini, or sample one of the selections on
the most extensive bourbon list in D.C. And while you're sipping,
order some nibbles from the Social Food Menu; these are appetizers
that are perfect for sharing, like mini sirloin burgers (with
homemade ketchup!) fried buttermilk Vidalia onion rings, and grilled
portobello mushroom with brie. By now, your appetite will be whetted
and you'll be ready to dive into the entrees: I loved the blue
cheese crusted sirloin and the truffle oil infused potatoes. Or sink
your teeth into molasses-braised short ribs or grilled baby lamb
chops. And don't forget the wine; the list complements the
straightforward menu, and with prices from 19 to 120, there's
something for every budget. When I left, I was relaxed, happy - and
still had money in my wallet!
Zola has been called DC's hottest restaurant, and after seeing it
for myself, I agree completely. Attached to the Spy Museum, its aura
is, appropriately, one of mystery and intrigue. And it's really
beckoning the beautiful people, who pack into its several small
dining rooms for a taste of chef Frank Morales's new American
cuisine at impressively reasonable prices. Do your best to snag one
of the red velvet booths with portholes, giving you a view of the
kitchen (and giving the kitchen a view of you, so staff and chefs
can keep a watchful eye on you). Or, if privacy is what you're
after, there are two half-moon booth hidden in the back beyond the
bar. And the service is wonderful; order the eponymous drink, and
two waiters arrive to prepare it for you tableside. Other selections
on the amazing cocktail list might be served in similarly sultry
way, and poured into a champagne flute of French crystal. Stop by
for dinner this time of year and appetizers might include tuna
tartar with a spicy lime vinaigrette, cucumber salad, whipped lemon
cream and giant taro chips, or crisp rock shrimp on honeyed
cornbread with a sweet pepper marmalade. Entrees are classic and
delicious, and could include seared Columbia River king salmon with
stirfried peas, wild ramps and tarragon. For dessert, the choice is
obvious: the super-decadent fondue served with a flourish and
surrounded by Rice Krispy treats, peanut butter cookie dough, fresh
strawberries and bananas. Remember, if you happen to drop a piece of
fondue on the table or floor, you have to kiss your dining
companion: but don't forget that the chef is probably watching, and
the secretary of state might be eating a the next table!
You've had tapas, but what about tapas Turkish style? No? Then visit
Zaytinya, another DC hotspot, and the latest eatery in chef/owner
Jose Andres's empire.. It's the place for incredible finger food, or
meze, with Greek, Turkish and Lebanese flair -- priced for sharing .
The massive 200-seat establishment still feels cozy ; chalk it up to
the huge grid of candles, and the gentle blue and white walls. Ask
the waiter to help you select a wine from a long, balanced list; you
won't find these Middle Eastern wines in most restaurants.
Vegetarians will love the perfectly-done falafel and the yummy
kolokithokeftedes, or zucchini-cheese patties, while carnivores will
salivate over arayes (minced lamb in a pita) or kibbeh (beef and
wheat fritters with almonds, pinenuts, and currents). And don't miss
the incredible baklava for dessert.
It's easy to eat your way through both old and new D.C. -- and
these are just a few of my favorites! But don't take my word for it;
taste it for yourself.
Sheree Bykofsky is the
author of The
Best Places to Kiss in and Around NYC and the 52 Most Romantic Dates
in and Around NYC